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The Scottish Highlands’ most haunted hiking stopover - Luibeilt Bothy

Revised June 2024

On Christmas Day 2021, the BBC aired a podcast series penned by Danny Robins titled “Uncanny: Don't Sleep in This House”, followed by another chilling episode dubbed “The Curse of Luibeilt”. These narratives delved into a harrowing tale set in December 1973, when two men, Phil MacNeill and Jimmy Dunn, encountered a series of spine-chilling events at a remote mountain bothy nestled in the desolate Scottish Highlands.

Bothies, these isolated shelters of stone and solitude, offer no modern amenities—no running water, no beds, no lights. Even a fireplace might sit dormant without fuel. Described by mountainbothies.org.uk as places where "your comforts have to be carried in", they are rugged sanctuaries in the wilds of Scotland, Northern England, Ulster, and Wales.

In the eerie stillness of these remote havens, what transpired during that ominous Christmas hike of 1973 remains shrouded in unsettling mystery. Echoing whispers of curses and unexplained occurrences haunt the desolate landscape to this day.

Phil MacNeill and BBC Uncanny

Phil MacNeill was 18 and a member of Glasgow's Langside Climbing Club when he and his friend Jimmy Dunn headed out to the area to the east of Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Scotland, the United Kingdom and the British Isles, around Christmas time in 1973. The mountain has a summit of 4,413 feet (1,345 meters) above sea level.

They took the train to Balloch and then hitched a lift north to Kinlochleven, near Fort William. From there, they set out on foot about 10 miles (16km) to Luibeilt Lodge, deep in the Lochaber hills. Phil and Jimmy hoped to use it as a base for their climbing trip.

The building was a former deer stalking lodge, now in ruins, and at the time the two young men headed there, the building had been used as a bothy by walkers.

The arrival at the Luibeilt Lodge bothy

When they arrived at the bothy, the door was locked, but looking through the windows, the men could see dishes in the sink, but no one seemed inside.

They left what baggage they had with them in an outhouse and began a walk into the hills. They decided to head off to do some climbing and returned to the old lodge at around 9 pm. Phil said, "It was pitch dark. We shone our torches through the windows, and nothing seemed to have changed."

The men got inside the building through an unsecured window. They considered that because Luibeilt was so far out from any other town or village, there would be no chance of the inhabitants returning on a cold winter evening at that time of night, so they hoped they would get a peaceful night’s sleep and be ready and refreshed for their adventures the following day.

But once inside, they noticed something. "It was much colder inside than outside," said Phil. "It felt odd. It became obvious the place had been vacated very rapidly." Strangely, there was a table set for Christmas dinner, with crackers still to be pulled open. It was like the previous occupants had left in a hurry.

Exploring the empty building, the men saw each room was furnished and appeared to have been lived in, except the bedroom directly above the living room. Inside was a dismantled metal bed frame lying against a wall and a window with open curtains. On the window sill, there was a large boulder made of rock.

Phil and Jimmy searched the entire house, went downstairs to the living room, and got into their sleeping bags.

Phil said: "It was extremely cold, and the silence was palpable. It enveloped you. Almost the minute we blew out our candle, there were noises upstairs.”"

Nothing happened for a while, but then they heard footsteps and noises of the metal bed being put together. This was followed by what sounded like the rock from the window sill being rolled across the floor. After that, somehow, the two men managed to drop off to sleep, believing they may have imagined some of the strange noises.

But at 4 am, Phil said the living room "erupted" with the sounds of objects, including the men's ice axes, being thrown "all over the place" in the darkness. Phil remembered, "I am absolutely petrified”.

Then the noise stopped as quickly as it had started, and Phil lit a candle, but it was sent "flying across the room".

Next, the two men heard the sound of footsteps again, but this time, moving down a spiral staircase outside the closed living room door. The footsteps rhythmically descended the stairs, one by one, in the pitch dark, until they stopped at the closed door to their room. By this stage, Phil had grabbed an ice pick and was ready to strike the intruder as he swung the door open. But, no one was there, “I slammed the door shut, and the footsteps went straight back on the spiral staircase, emerging to the top and wandering across the bedroom above.”

Now petrified, the two men quickly packed up their things and exited Luibeilt in terror via the living room window.

Before they fled to Kinlochleven, they shone their head torches toward the upstairs bedroom window where they had seen the metal-framed bed earlier and the sound of the rolling boulder. Phil says they saw the olive green curtains were now closed. The men fled the scene.

Sceptics believe the noises of the bed, rock and steps on the stairs were just another visitor to the bothy walking around the property. But Phil dismisses this theory, believing nobody could have been hiding in the lodge or arrived after they did, "We would have seen their footprints in the snow.”

Psychologist Dr Ciaran O'Keeffe and writer and Edinburgh-based paranormal psychologist Evelyn Hollow aired their theories during the Uncanny podcast.

Hollow says Scotland is "saturated" in the paranormal and is "one of the most haunted countries in the world", postulating that the source of the two men’s experiences was a poltergeist.

Dr O'Keeffe suggests that if there were no other people in the house, the men may have been feeling the effects of tiredness and the extreme cold or even hypothermia. He said in the program that this can influence levels of consciousness, alertness, and judgement and may have led to everyday sounds being misinterpreted as something ghostly.

Dr O'Keeffe said: "At Ben Alder cottage, similar phenomena were reported. In that case, it was found that a stag was using its antlers and banging on the side of the wall."

Gibson Street Glasgow

But the strange story didn’t end there after the two men returned from their highlands climbing trip.

The weird events continued at Phil’s home at 39 Gibson Street in Glasgow.

Phil told Danny in the second podcast that when he returned from the bothy, he became increasingly troubled at the thought of going anywhere alone, along with the strange sensation that he was never actually truly alone. That whatever presence they had encountered at Luibeilt had somehow followed them to the flat he shared with fellow hiker Bill in Gibson Street.

Phil explained that Gibson Street had always had a reputation for being quite a spooky spot, but he had taken these stories with a pinch of salt. He’d heard that. The building was supposedly haunted, and two American students had experienced poltergeist activity in the 1950s.

For the first six months of 1974, Phil noticed things happening in his home that he hadn’t encountered before. One day, when he pulled back the carpet in the flat, Phil uncovered a cross made of old newspaper with what he believed to be a bloodstain in the middle of it. He also found a trap door on the floor, which he found unusual, and at that moment, the fitted lightbulb in his kitchen suddenly unscrewed itself, fell and shattered on the floor.

The return to Luibeilt Lodge

After these weird events, Phil returned to Luibeilt to understand further what he had been experiencing since first staying there. In 1975, Phil and Jimmy, with David, a skeptical friend, hiked back to the isolated Lodge in the highlands.

The three men arrived and lit a candle, but soon after, noises from outside came from the gravel path that separated the bothy from a nearby river and sounded like someone was dragging something.

The noise got closer to them until it was soon inside the house, behind the closed door of the living room where they were planning to sleep.

Phil said, “I clenched my fist leaving my thumb and my little finger extended out of my clenched hand and that in fact, is a demonic sign and I cast a huge shadow with my outstretched hand on the ceiling.”

While he wasn’t sure why he made the gesture, he said he felt as though there was “this incredible reversal of the noises” and that he had now overcome whatever was in Luibeilt that night.

Then, in 2021, Phil returned to Luibeilt in the summer with some friends and by now, the building was an uninhabited shell compared to their visits in 1973 and 1975. The roof was down, and the building was in poor condition. Ominously, Someone had spray-painted on the wall, “This house is haunted; this house is evil.”.